Tu Lan Caves, Vietnam
The goal of my visit to Vietnam was simply to do the Tu Lan cave system in the Phong Nha Ke-Bang national park. These caves blew my mind away and are deservingly on the world heritage list. I was also so glad to have tacked on a few
more weeks to explore some of the northern areas of Vietnam as well.
I nearly didn't get to Vietnam, because I delayed applying for a visa.
Government bodies like they are everywhere were not interested in working
quickly either. I was thinking you could get a visa on arrival, rather like in
Nepal, however it is not quite the same. Despite applying, one has to have an
email confirmation from the Vietnamese embassy that it has been approved.
I
was turned around at Melbourne airport as I did not have that email confirming my application. As luck would have it, the visa
approval came in the next day. I must say, Vietnam Airlines treated me well
and despite have the cheapest economy ticket. it wasn't over the top to arrange
a new flight and get some credit too to get me to Hanoi on time.
Luckily I had a buffer of a few days, so the stress wasn't too high. I still
had couple of days to spare and was able to settle in the Phong Nha village
before the expedition. This gave me time to get over jet lag and sort out any
last minute issues should there be any.
Phong Nha village is a small town set by a river, it hosts excursions to the Phong Nha caves and is the location of the office headquarters for Oxalis Adventure. I was happy just to ride a
bicycle, walk around and have a meal/coffee in town rather than explore the caves.
I stayed in a lovely homestay (bolero homestay) run be a
family which had a pool and separate apartments (probably better than where
they are sleeping). My host was friendly and helpful despite me being the only
guest.
The
Tu Lan cave expedition
was run by Oxalis Adventures, I did the 6 day,5 night (TL4) trip.
"A 6 day 5 night tour journey exploring the Tu Lan Cave System with
spectacular caves and underground rivers". The whole trip was run very well and exceeded my expectations. The overview
was in no way overselling, it was as they described.
Firstly we stayed at the Chay Lap homestay, this is located in a village
across the other side of the river. If you go by motorbike, there is a small
ferry that can take you across located near the Phong Nha cave. That would
save probably 1/2 an hour of travel over the car route. My host provided the motorcycle taxi service for me
to get there.
Going this way was fun, crossing over on the tiny ferry, traversing on well maintained concrete paths that could host a small truck. They were quiet and trafficked mainly by motorcycle or pedestrians. Truly this was rustic beauty with the aesthetic of river, rice and other grains, mountains; all dominating the small village.
The resort was pleasant, food good and staff well mannered and helpful. I took
advantage of the free bike hire and kayak hire to while the day away.
Kayaking
is one of my leisure pursuits, and I surprised the vendors that I was able to
paddle to 'dark' cave and back. The dark cave adventure promoters were not
happy about my presence, but I stuck to my guns saying that they do not own
the river and didn't intend going inside the cave. (Not that I'd want to, it
wasn't that appealing a venue and looked in need of a bit of t.l.c)
This expedition had a great combination of jungle trekking, water crossings,
scrambling, abseiling and swimming. The food was excellent and caves were
simply off the scale in majesty and form.
The water inside the caves was warm, and it was a pleasure to float through from one cavern to another. The caves are huge and the head torches illuminate but a small portion of them.
Absolutely no complaints about food. There was plenty of it, plenty of variety and it all tasted great. No gut rot: our host was careful to ensure that we sanitized our hands at every meal too.
Inside the caves, outside the caves, the area was so sublime and varied. I am kicking myself to think I am traipsing through this area.
When they said that these caves are huge, it is hard to imagine. Here I am, diminished to a fraction compared to the height of one of the caves. The stalactites hang from the ceilings and stalagmites go up. Over hundreds, if not thousands of years they join together. Some don't get there and break off, some are small and some are huge.
Into the abyss. I did enjoy the abseiling. bit of a shame there wasn't more.
The ladders are long. There was little risk ascending them with a rope and ascending device on the side to trap any fall. Fear wasn't a factor in either of these activities as the darkness disguised the vertiginous nature of the precipice.
Boats are used it the swim is too long or impractical. The are narrow and shallow, but with their flat bottom quite stable.
Wading across flowing streams, we create a train linking arms and gradually work across the current.
The jungle: what won't hurt you. Like sharks in the sea or cars speeding on roads, it is best not to over think it. These leaves of the stinging plant apparently will leave a lasting unpleasant impression. Needless to say, I did not test them out.
Trekking in the jungle is fun with the dense foliage and the occasional glimpse of valleys.
After a day of toil we had a steam room to pamper ourselves in. A simple structure and mechanism, it works. Probably a bit safer than the hot rocks in the fire I did in Alaska so many moons ago.
We had an opportunity to go through some narrow passageways. Not as extreme as crawling on one's stomach, but still the clambering added a fun element to the trip.
Limestone is very sharp. We wore gloves when there was lot of rock or risk of slipping to keep our skin protected against cuts.
The Tu Lan lodge is a slice of luxury. It is quite a juxtaposition to the village nearby. Sensibly it is discreet and the takings are used to employ and support community projects.
We visited a local home and were treated like royalty with this feast.
Wallowing in the mire - pleasure for the buffalo !
..
For an interactive map and more photos see:
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